Chaos on the waves as holiday crowds hit the surf
WE HAVE come through the first week of the school holidays with some fairly reasonable waves although, depending on where you have been surfing, the crowds have at times been chaotic.
I tend to avoid such situations even when the waves are good.
I see crowds as another environmental factor to take into account. Just like the wind, tide and swell, the crowd also affects the surf-ability of a place.
During this school break, I've seen many people making the call that's its unsurfable due to the level of congestion in the water.
That didn't stop some from paddling out to try their luck, but it did stop many others.
I suppose when it comes to a measure of what's too crowded and what's not, it's a matter of personal taste.
I prefer to go without the spiralling frustration that tends to spread through a big crowd.
I'm happy to settle for lower quality waves if it means less stress.
As for the waves, we could be in for a little luck this weekend. There's a low pressure trough approaching from the west.
It looks like it may intensify into a couple of complex lows as it crosses the coast probably today.
It won't survive long enough to get serious. But it may at least kick some south to south-east wind swell in our general direction for a day or two.
Hopefully we'll see a 1-2m of S/SE swell at (8-11secs) with southerly winds all weekend.
After that it looks kind of sketchy at best, however way down south below Tasmania is a monster southern ocean system.
It's generating a lot of very long period west to south-west swell. It's huge and powerful; it's also a long shot if any of this swell manages to refract around Tasmania and run up through the Tasman Sea.
Later in the week we could see some clean southerly lines.
Sure, it would be greatly reduced in size and swell period by the time we saw any of it. But if we're lucky it might just be a nice little surprise for the end of the school holidays.
Stay safe, have fun, wait your turn, and surf today like you want to surf again tomorrow.