Surfing through highs and lows
FIRST OFF, just a little heads up folks; the beasties are still about. I spotted a fair-sized shark about four meters long hanging off The Pass on Wednesday at high tide.
It was cruising in close, and nobody seemed to notice due to the fairly murky conditions. So once again, be aware, they are still there. But enough about sharks, let's look at the surf conditions.
Last week we were treated to a highly unseasonal easterly trade wind swell.
It was a good score for the three days that it lasted, but sadly there has been no more.
We have had a hint of south swell trying to push into our region, hovering around 0.5-1m all week. But that's about it.
The current charts for our continent are chaotic to say the least.
There is so much going on right now; there were five lows and four highs when I last checked.
What this equates to is that no particular system can really take a hold long enough to dominate and intensify.
It means short wind fetches that produce short- period wind swells which tend to neutralise each other. Or to put it very simply, plenty of wind, and not many waves.
There is, however, a glimmer of hope on the horizon. It's in the form of a small but long-period south swell from way down south that could enter the very southern edge of our region this afternoon.
If this swell manages to hold up against the forecast northerly wind, we could get a win on the southern facing beaches on Saturday morning.
However it's a fair call to say the chances are slim.
Saturday we'll most likely experience NW/N winds at 15-25 knots. Or possibly even stronger as a weak southerly change attempts to reach our region for Sunday.
If we're lucky, Saturday could see 1-1.5m of south swell. However the chance of an E/NE wind swell quickly neutralising it is fairly high, so be early.
Sunday could see S/SE winds if the weak low pressure system makes it this far north. It could renew a small spike in SE swell, but it's more likely to be very short period and much softer.
The southerly change is a weak system and it could very easily swing back to the north by the afternoon. Happy hunting and good luck.
Remember it's just that time of year, so don't be too fussy or you'll probably miss out. Remember to have fun, wait your turn, watch your toes, and surf today like you want to surf again tomorrow.