Surfing: Strong El Nino messing with our waves
SO FAR it hasn't been the best week for waves around the traps.
There has been a little bit of easterly trade wind swell around, but not really enough to get excited about.
Plus, the unseasonal northerlies have been blowing for a few days.
It just hasn't really been that enticing.
This is basically because of the effects of the strong El Nino, which so far refuses to weaken. We're still getting days where we swing back into spring-style weather.
Normally around this time of year the winds may go E/NE or even NE, but much lighter, allowing for cleaner surf.
Be that as it may, there is a chance of a short-lived pulse of south swell for the weekend. But I stress the words "short lived".
Unlike the last pulse of southerly swell we had, this one is not the product of a deep Southern Ocean low.
Rather it'll be from a monsoonal trough crossing the east coast a little further to the south than usual.
It will briefly intensify, but it's moving too fast to generate any real quality waves.
What we're most likely to see is a rapid increase in very short period, and fairly messy straight south wind swell, probably today or tonight. This swell will then begin to drop steadily over the weekend, as it swings back to a small easterly trade swell.
Being straight south, most of the larger swell won't get in on the points. Plus, seeing as it's going to be a mix of swell and rough seas generated very close to home, this particular pulse could be junky and unpredictable with strange rips and currents, so watch for the kids.
Short period swells like this can actually be quite dangerous and very tricky for the inexperienced.
Speaking of kids - here's a really important safety tip for parents teaching their kids to surf.
It's prudent to not push your little ones into a wave that someone else is already surfing.
Not only would other surfers not be expecting you to do this, but it's a really good way to put your child at risk of a potentially serious injury.
If you do this and your child gets hurt, you've only got yourself to blame.
I've seen this go wrong many times and it's fairly traumatic for everyone involved, especially for the child and the innocent surfer. So think and look before you push.
Stay safe, wait your turn, and surf today like you want to surf again tomorrow.