ABOVE: Nice thick little hollow section as the south swell begins to build.
ABOVE: Nice thick little hollow section as the south swell begins to build. Inbyronbaytodaycom

There's a wave on the way

OK LET'S cut to the chase, we're all just a little wave hungry, and with pretty good reason too.

The last three weekends in a row have been pretty lame for surf to say the least. There is no real point in recapping how it's been, we all know it's been small and windy and a no-show for swell.

The good news is that this weekend is looking a little more promising, well promising in relation to how it's been of late.

Granted it won't be huge or even particularly perfect as the winds will swing back to the north-east yet again. But there is most likely going to be some residual long-period south swell lingering in our region.

It won't be huge as it peaked in size yesterday afternoon. But it will still be making its presence felt in the background come tomorrow morning.

This swell will be backing off fairly quickly to about the metre mark or less. Yet being long period, or in other words nice and thick, there should be a little bit of workable punch to the waves on the open beaches while it lasts.

LEFT: Kian working a little beachie.
LEFT: Kian working a little beachie.

 

Down to the business end, the bureau says we can expect north to north-easterlies around the 7-15 knot range on Saturday and a little stronger as we wind into Sunday.

But it will back off in size and the wave period will reduce from 14 back to eight seconds during the day. So expect things to get smaller and softer as it swings more easterly.

Then we're back to spring conditions again with east to north-east wind swell and north-east wind. Tomorrow will be the best bet on the south-facing beaches with an incoming tide peaking mid-afternoon.

Whatever south swell is left will get pulled into these spots. If you're taking the little ones with you on Saturday morning, keep an eye on them.

Long-period south swell can produce some sneaky bigger than expected punchy sets, even when it looks small.

Remember to have fun, wait your turn, and surf today like you want to surf again tomorrow.

Ben 'Bear' Bennink is a former professional longboarder and retired NSSIA master coach. He writes for Pacific Longboarder Magazine and is semi-retired in Byron Bay where he is editor of inbyronbaytoday.com.



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