Facing down monsters: Mammoth swell hits city's beaches

 

Wild surf and hazardous swells continue to tear up NSW's coastline, as surfers and swimmers brave the chill to make the most of the monster waves.

Youngsters in wetsuits lined the edge of North Narrabeen ocean pool today as the huge swell rolled in, while surfers rushed to beaches from Maroubra to Bronte.

On Friday, as the swell began picking up, surfer Kelly Slater was spotted at a Sydney beach taking on the waves, already so ferocious his board snapped.

Grommets line up at North Narrabeen pool as the swell rolls in. Picture John. Grainger
Grommets line up at North Narrabeen pool as the swell rolls in. Picture John. Grainger

The huge surf is being driven by a deep and complex low-pressure system hovering above the western Tasman Sea, sending strong south-westerly winds and large waves to much of NSW.

The cold front has seen temperatures plummet in parts of the state with the Blue Mountains at Blackheath, Yetholme and Mount Canobalas and parts of the Central Tablelands receiving a dusting of snow earlier in the week.

A surfer carefully waits at the Bronte pool to tackle the surf in Sydney at dawn this morning. Picture. Phil Hillyard
A surfer carefully waits at the Bronte pool to tackle the surf in Sydney at dawn this morning. Picture. Phil Hillyard

The wild surf conditions are expected to last a number of days according to the Bureau of Meteorology, with the swell set to top 5.5m for the rest of the weekend, as gale force winds thrash the east coast.

A hazardous surf warning is in place stretching from Byron Bay down to the Eden coast all weekend, and NSW Police Force, Marine Area Command have urged people to be cautious.

Kelly Slater at Avalon on Friday after snapping his surfboard.
Kelly Slater at Avalon on Friday after snapping his surfboard.

The weekend's ferocious swell of up to five metres will tower the coast, putting oceanfront homes at risk of coastal erosion as beachgoers are told to be vigilant.

People should avoid walking near surf-exposed areas, rockfishermen are warned to avoid coastal rock platforms exposed to the ocean and boaters should consider delaying voyages.

A swimmer dives into choppy waters at North Narrabeen as the swell turns the ocean pool into a washing machine. Picture John Grainger
A swimmer dives into choppy waters at North Narrabeen as the swell turns the ocean pool into a washing machine. Picture John Grainger

 

 

Originally published as Facing down monsters: Mammoth swell hits Sydney

… but they can’t stand up against the swell’s force. Picture John. Grainger
… but they can’t stand up against the swell’s force. Picture John. Grainger

 

The huge surf pounding the coast at North Narrabeen. Picture John Grainger
The huge surf pounding the coast at North Narrabeen. Picture John Grainger
Big surf at dawn at Bronte Beach, Sydney. Picture. Phil Hillyard
Big surf at dawn at Bronte Beach, Sydney. Picture. Phil Hillyard
At North Narrabeen some surfers were being towed out to catch the huge waves. Picture John Grainger
At North Narrabeen some surfers were being towed out to catch the huge waves. Picture John Grainger


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