There’s a west to north-west wind change coming that will clean up what’s left of the cyclone swell and chip away at its size, punch and wave period as well.
There’s a west to north-west wind change coming that will clean up what’s left of the cyclone swell and chip away at its size, punch and wave period as well. Che Chapman

El Nino bringing some weird weather to end good swell

WHAT a way to end the holidays.

That tropical low did indeed go cyclonic, and was named Tropical Cyclone Victor, although now it's back to a tropical low once again. The system has continued to pump a long-period, easterly swell train at us for the last seven days.

Sadly, however, that's about to come to a grinding halt as the El Nino clicks back in to hit us up with some strange weather for this time of year. There's a west to north-west wind change coming.

That will clean up what's left of that cyclone swell, but it will also rapidly chip away at its size, punch and wave period as well.

Today we can expect it to still be running at 12-15 seconds. By tomorrow afternoon, that wave period will have almost halved.

This will drain a lot of juice out of what we've all become accustomed to over the last week.

The reason for this unseasonal weather is a string of low pressure systems held within a long trough that's traversing the continent towards the east.

This is a strange occurrence for this time of year, yet it's on its way today, and there's a fair chance it could produce rapidly intensifying super cells. That means that as the trough pulls, the lows passes over us.

There is a fair chance we could experience some pretty radical storms.

You know the kind - heavy rain, flash flooding, possible hail and many lightning strikes.

Bottom line here is this, should this eventuate, it would be prudent to not be out in the water.

This system will change things overnight - the swell is most likely to drop from E 1.5-2m down to E-NE 0.5-1m.

The wind for the weekend looks to be predominantly north-west. Worst wind you could ask for on the points.

However, if you get out and explore the back beaches, once the storms have passed, you may just get lucky and find some super clean offshore peaks.

Chances are that after a whole week of that pounding ground swell, there could be some new banks formed at spots that previously weren't any good.

It might be the right time to pack some food and water, grab a mate and go for a little hike. You just may luck into a nice back beach bank that nobody else has managed to sniff out yet.

Happy hunting, but be aware of storms forming.

Stay safe, wait your turn, and surf today like you want to surf again tomorrow.



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